[b16sir1991]

Hi guys, first off, im a Master Ford tech of 27 years. So, im not a beginner. BUT, i have a problem that is kicking my butt. I have a 2013 C-Max that i installed a self amplified Bazooka bass tube in. These use either a high level input or line level input. So, i tied into the rear door speaker for the high level input. Battery power is directly to the 12v battery and grounded right beside it on the chassis on an open ground location. I have also wrapped the high level wires in Faraday tape. Every time the car transitions between gas and EV and EV to gas, i get horrible feedback. Bad enough it sounds like it could blow the sub. Has anyone else had this happen and if so, why?

 

[b16sir1991]

Two days and not a single response?

 

[1957 Browns]

Hi b16sir1991. Sorry to hear about your problem. I had a car audio shop for twenty years, But i have never put a system in a hybrid. My first thought was a ground deferential , because of the frame ground point. if possible have a VOM on the ground and power when the power source changes. if the voltage measured changes, that would be your issue. i would recommend running an 8 gauge ground back to the battery/ that should not be difficult as the power side is ran there. Hope this helps.

 

[Daniel Williams]

I would recommend that you get a ground loop isolator.

Thing is the typical ones aren't designed for your setup.

You'd need a high level converter then a ground loop isolator.

They do make a isolator that's built into a high level adapter...

https://www.amazon.com/Absolute-HLA550-Converter-Isolator-Eliminator/dp/B004FWSXB2

It's worth the try...

As for what the other guy said... He's right...

Typically you should never ground ground something to the battery. It's a no no... But sometimes...

Alternately though... I've NEVER EVER grounded anything to a battery because you never ever need to. You can ground to the location that the battery ground strap/wire goes to. So follow the negative strap/wire off the battery to the chassis remove that bolt and use a properly sized ring to ground your ground wire... I'm guessing this will solve your issue. If it does not then there are other options that might get a bit complicated but they are doable.

For the ring... Use something decent made of copper. Load it with solder... So if it's a crush then crush it then load it with solder.

I don't know the size of the bolt but let's say to get a decent ring termination it ends up being for 8 guage and your using 12 or 14 guage you can strip back extra wire then fold the fire before inserting it into the termination. But like I said please please load it with solder. You'll push the tip of the iron into the wire wait a moment and then start shoving the solder into the iron tip then just freely into the wire and termination. If you don't do this there is a good chance that eventually the termination fails one way or another.

Another option would be IF you wanted to improve audio beyond just the sub I'd recommend a Rockford Fosgate DSR1 it's going to cost you $220-300 but it's like having a $2000 DSP!!! Ive spent thousands on DSPs never has truly top notch quality and integration been so readily available and affordable.

All you need is a DSR1 and a small inexpensive hideable 4CH amp or two. Id only do this if you want truly top notch audio and plan on replacing your front speakers.

A 4CH would do your front speakers I'd recommend disconnecting the center in this situation. Youd buy the tweeters and lows separately without crossovers in this scenario.

The crossover would be the DSP after using a microphone to calibrate the system which is where a DSP shines. You don't need the best speakers in the world. You just need decent ones and decent small digital class amplifiers.

But that's just if that's your direction...

If you just wanted to go the least expensive route then so what I mentioned first and eventually if it's not the sony system then disconnect the center, add bass blockers to the 6.5" speakers (bass blockers are dirt cheap and increase the available amplifier power that can be sent to usable frequencies by blocking the lowest frequencies that the speakers can't play anyways).

You should def disconnect the center. If you do disconnect the center never run the car in driver audio mode. That uses a DSP that expects the center to be present.

Anyways hope this stuff helps

William Daniel
20 years of absolute audiophile level car, home and theater level experience, 20 years home and vehicle automation/security experience. 20 years of calibration experience (DSP, Time Alignment, making **** speakers sound better). 7 years of active cross-over experience (using electronic DSPs to REMOVE the passive crossover networks found in speakers including my first setup martin logan electrostatic speaker with the entire crossover network gutted)

 

[Done/df]

It's a good post. But I am looking for a digital marketing internship related to information. Its will be helpful for me

 

[Looney2ned]

Hi guys, first off, im a Master Ford tech of 27 years. So, im not a beginner. BUT, i have a problem that is kicking my butt. I have a 2013 C-Max that i installed a self amplified Bazooka bass tube in. These use either a high level input or line level input. So, i tied into the rear door speaker for the high level input. Battery power is directly to the 12v battery and grounded right beside it on the chassis on an open ground location. I have also wrapped the high level wires in Faraday tape. Every time the car transitions between gas and EV and EV to gas, i get horrible feedback. Bad enough it sounds like it could blow the sub. Has anyone else had this happen and if so, why?

did you solve this problem because I just hit the same wall? The low end is awful in my cmax

 

[jonathan.teysko]

did you solve this problem because I just hit the same wall? The low end is awful in my cmax

10 months late to the party... but there is a SUPER SIMPLE solution. It's the noise cancellation system and it can be disabled by unclipping one small wire harness below/ behind the glove box. Takes about a minute start to finish.

I installed a 1,200w amp for a subwoofer in my 2013 Cmax hybrid and got that insane sound coming through. I was so glad to find the fix after messing with noise filters, ground loop isolators, upgrading grounds, moving grounds, etc, etc.

This is from @Wizzurp on another forum (thanks so much to that man!)


Onward to the actual how to:

Step 1:

Open your passenger door and put the passenger seat all the way back, you will be on the floor under the dash.


Step 2:

Stick your head under the glove box (leave it shut) and notice there is a thin fuzzy panel that is retained by two black clips that go over yellow posts. Remove the clips and pull down on the panel so you can see behind it. You should see a fuse block, some wiring, a floor light, a floor vent, and some various other stuff.



Step 3:

Locate the gray 6 pin plug that I show in the image, all the primary wire colors are blue or brown as shown. If you need the supplementary wire colors for some reason just ask and I'll catalog them but it's the only plug that has this color combination in this direct area. Unclip it! If you are worried for some reason, you can wrap the end in electrical tape or something but they are heavily recessed and should never have any issues with touching anything.



Step 4:

Put the furry panel back into place and stick the clips back over their posts to hold everything together. You know, the whole reassemble in reverse order thing.

Step 5:

Enjoy your lack of Skrillex inspired wobwobwob!