Servicing

13553 Views 36 Replies 11 Participants Last post by Craigski, Jun 5, 2011

lazyb

Discussion Starter · Jul 27, 2008

Thought i would lighten up everybodies day by telling them about my attempt to service the cmax. I started yetserday at the ford garage when i got new filters came home and decided to let the oil out of the sump then change all filters. Remove underguard .. where the flippin hecks the sump plug..oh its round the back

why not at the front ? Still with a bit of persuasion its turning , get my trays ready and.. bugger it comes out with such a force it goes into and back out of the tray block paving is now covered with oil

. Ok start with oil filter which is buried away halfway down the block this needs a 24mm socket set with 12inch extension to shift it. No problems with that one new filter on and replace oil

. Diesel next again using the socket set you unscrew the top. This is where the problems began unfortunately i had not bothered to open the diesel filter if i had i would have spotted the plugs and caps which are designed to be inserted into the ends of the pipes and the filter bosses. As it is i empty the filter housing clean out all the dirt and put back together. Now i have changed the diesel filters on loads of cars and i justput them back together crank it for a few turns and then they fire up. The cmax wouldnt start for love or money. After a while i read up about bleeding the diesel system to find the cmax doesnt have a lift pump from the tank to the main pump, it uses the same pump so you cannot have any air in the system. Off i go in the wifes car to the local car shop to buy a diesel bleeding kit. Finally got back and pumped out air only to find the battery is nearly flat and wont start the car

. Put the car on charge over night and finally started it this morning. So in hindsight never remove any diesel hoses without you have been first and bought a bleeding kit and always fit the pump before the filter.First service on the max is done it took about 24 hours car seems ok would like to read any faults but my odb2 kit isnt working and i cant be bothered, hope this helps somebody along the line avoid the problems i had which were of my own making
cya

See less See more

4

1 - 20 of 37 Posts

lawe

· #2 · Jul 27, 2008

OMG

I feel for you and can understand that enough is enough with obd2!
Well you've opened my eyes for the service part as I want to do all the filters and change the oil.
Though as you say the fuel filter seems to be a right pain to do. Now I thought you just had to disconnect the pipes and then open up filter housing?
Well I hope you are now having a well deserved pint

See less See more

2

lazyb

Discussion Starter · #3 · Jul 27, 2008

hi steve,
thats exactly what i thought about the diesel filter just unclip take top off then back together. Hopefully if all read this nobody will be caught out and the bleed pumps are cheap about a fiver. I also got my obd2 connection working simple thing i had missed putting one of the drivers in it takes 2!! I have 3 programs with which to read the diagnostics but pcmscan seems the friendliest it even does real time scans whilst you drive. I would recommend the elm327 interface no mess of wires like the other one.Now sat in the garden after washing the car with lager
ttfn

lawe

· #4 · Jul 27, 2008

Cheers!

dj7581

· #5 · Aug 2, 2008

hi everyone im new to this could anybody tell me were 2 buy bleed pump from and how much as i have changed my fuel filter on diesal cmax fell into that trap as i service all my cars and have come across this problem cheers

lazyb

Discussion Starter · #6 · Aug 2, 2008

Hello mate any normal car shop will sell themmine was about a fiver. It looks like an elongated tennis ball and it has a one way valve built into it took me about 20 mins to sort when i finally got it.Hope you get sorted and welcome to the forum

MetalMicky08

· #7 · Aug 3, 2008

Hi lazyb,so you washed your car in lager,does it bring up a good shine or do you need to get the wife to put Auto Glymm Super poloish on afterwards?

See less See more

NEO

· #8 · Dec 6, 2008

Hi...as you can see im a new member...ill begin by saying i had the same problem when it came to starting the car after changing the diesel fuel filter...went to fords and asked them for a diesel priming kit.. no joy so i finaly purchased it from justoffbase, then i wanted to bring up the fuel from the tank to fill the filter but after a trip to fords they informed me they dont sell the attachments to connect my priming pump to the fuel line. So then i got my priming pump and on one end of it i connected a fuel filter of which was going to be dipped in a large jar of diesel the other end i connected to a white plastichose that takes fuel to the filterjust above the timing belt...you need to unclip the connection going to it first. I then primed the pump quite a few times disconnected it and connected back the cars one... the car started first time. hope all this helps

See less See more

standard dude

· #9 · Jan 5, 2009

I don't totally understand why the system using one fuel pumpcan't self-prime - perhaps someone can explain? Is it because the pump can't pump air so therefore when the line has air in it there is no suction generated to lift fuel out of thetank?

I'm thinking along the lines ofthe pump that you get in a toy water pistol - these self prime because operating the trigger pumps air through thetubes until water is sucked into the pump cylinder.

Obviously I'm overlooking something.

See less See more

lazyb

Discussion Starter · #10 · Jan 5, 2009

hello mate
the pump is on the end of the crankshaft which is higher than the tank and as you rightly say the pump isnt strong enough to suck enough air to pull the diesel through. I have read my 1st post and what i dont clearly say is that you must get diesel into the pump and keep priming by hand whilst somebody else is turning the engine this will then fill the return pipe. Only by completeing thesyphon effect does the diesel stay in all pipes when the engine is turned off. Hopefully this will not put people off changeing their fuel filter its not as traumatic as it sounds and actually when i had the right gear and put it before the filter it took about 5 mins to get the car started. Hope this helped.
ps in other diesels they sometimes put an electric lift pump in the tank to make sure diesel is at the main pump when the car is turned over.This normally energises when you switch the ignition on and trips out when it reaches the right pressure.

See less See more

standard dude

· #11 · Jan 6, 2009

Thanks for the explanation!

I note that screwfix sell these pumps too:

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/77865/Automotive/Fuel-Pumps/Diesel-Priming-Tool

Is this how the fuel circuit looks?

tank -> fuel filter -> main pump -> injector rail -> return to tank

If that's correct, which part of the circuit does the prime pump go into? And after priming do you just leave it connected in or do you disconnect it? If you disconnect it - how come air doesn't get back into the pipes and put you back to square one?

Sorry for all the questions - I'm just not getting it.<a href="http://www.screwfix.com/prods/77865/Automotive/Fuel-Pumps/Diesel-Priming-Tool" target="_blank">
</A>http://www.screwfix.com/prods/77865/Automotive/Fuel-Pumps/Diesel-Priming-ToolEdited by: standard dude

See less See more

lazyb

Discussion Starter · #12 · Jan 6, 2009

Yep thats the pump connect this in line between the fuel tank and the filter now undo the air bleed ontop of the filter prime until diesel comes out off this bleed hole, close this bleed hole the filter is now full.Continue priming until the pipe to the pump is filled with diesel. You need to pump quite hard to do this as you are forcing air through the return line. Once you are at this point get another person to crank the engine. Continue priming even when engine is cranking, the fuel pipe to the diesel pump mustbe clear of large bubbles of air. The engine should start.!!!!!(fingers crossed took me about 3 goes) When engine is started allow to run for a couple of mins. Turn off engine. Get someone to help you and quickly remove priming pump from filter.place your thumbs over the ends of the pipes to prevent air entering. Quickly disconnect the remaining pipe and reconnect it into the filter. Hopefully only a small amount of air has entered the filter. Restart the engine allow to idle for 5 mins and check fuel pipe into pump for any signs of air bubbles,there will be a small amount from the filter but there should be a fairly clear stream of diesel.
Sorry for the rambling but hopefully i made it clear... if not pm me and i will ring you to explain things better.
Good luck

See less See more

standard dude

· #13 · Jan 7, 2009

Ok, that's answered my questions I think, thanks alot!

As it happens, today I collected my car fromtheprivate garage where it had it's alternator replaced and it's 4th year service andMOT done. The chap said he used the technique used for diesel ford transit vans to prime the fuel line - the vehicle is towed in2nd gear and the generated engine vacuum sucks fuel into the system. He tells me it worked a treat too.

He also showed me a 1900cc peugeot diesel car engine that had the exact same primer pump as that sold by screwfix permanently connected into the fuel line. Not sure why he prefered to use the tow method instead - I didn't ask.

BRT_22

· #14 · Apr 7, 2009

the socket size to the oil and fuel filter is a 27mm socket

lazyb

Discussion Starter · #15 · Apr 10, 2009

Hi all, well its that time of year again so this weekend sometime i will be servicing the max nothing much to explain i will be leaving the diesel filter as i had enough last year. Will also do the brake pads this time so any suprises i`ll let you know. Have a good easter everyone

lawe

· #16 · Apr 10, 2009

Lets us know how you get on with the pads.
I need to invest in a set of new discs & pads for the fronts so any tips most grateful.

Oh and happy easter to you as well

See less See more

lazyb

Discussion Starter · #17 · Apr 14, 2009

Hi, all
Well oil change and air filter completed no problems, i even found a vacuum hose that had split and replaced that.
Started on the front brakes and was suprised to find that my car doesnt have the brake wear warning system. My front pads were down to 1.5 mm and looked like the original ones. My car is a ghia model so not to have this was quite a shock i had expected to see a warning sign on the dash when the pads were low.Both front outer pads were seized into the caliper holder and it was in such a state that i took it off and got my Dremel on it . When i finished removing all the rust and muck i re painted it using exhaust manifold paint. Then gave the guides a coat of coppa slip and replaced it all. All brakes were down to about 1.5 - 2mm and someone had filled the brake fluid up so i even had to drain some of this off.
So everybody with a 04 tdci ghia best get down on your hands and knees and check those brakes.

See less See more

lawe

· #18 · Apr 14, 2009

Glad you it went pretty well!
At least it's one less gizmo to worry about. How much was the replacement pads? Must really get mine costed to see what it will cost me.

lazyb

Discussion Starter · #19 · Apr 14, 2009

Lo mate,
£50 quid for both front and rears from a local independant they were ferodo premiums.

lawe

· #20 · Apr 14, 2009

Cheers!

1 - 20 of 37 Posts

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.