Running problems - Ford C-Max Forum
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post #1 of 17 Old 01-11-2010, 02:27 PM Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 9
Well i thought I'd enlighten you all and any other Cmax owners or potential buyers with my experience so far.
Bought the car 31/10/09. It's a semi automatic, first non clutch based car my wife or I have ever owned so we though tit would take some getting used to.
Drove it around for the first week ok, no where too far just locally and we seem to notice that pulling off at junctions etc it seemed really slow and unresponsive. You had to really nail your put down to the floor to pull off and even then it would take good second to register and actually move anywhere.
Once you did pull off if you hadn't slammed your foot down and make the engine sounds like its Transitancestorthe change between 1st and 2nd was terrible, literally the revs would drop completely for a good second as if it had just died on us, even in manual as soon as you click into to second nothing for a second and then full power again.
We put this experience down to driver error maybe as we were both new to autos.
17/11/09 - 18 days of owning the car we had to venture up to leicestershire for a day out. It was fine all the way up until we got about half a mile from our destination, i turned a corner and went to pull off again and all of a sudden it seemed i couldn;t put any power down.
As i pressed harder on the throttle the rev screamed harder but the power going to the wheels was very little as we were doing around 20mph at full throttle. I pulled over to let traffic past and tried again, the same.
Then tried flicking into manual, same all through the gears plenty of revving but no power. Grrrrr.
When we got there i pulled up, drop off our passengers and booked in to the place we were going. I then went back out to the car to give it another try on our own before we ring for a tow truck to take us home (later) and well stone me, it was fine.
I tried everything reverse, drive, manual, ragging it, going slow everything and fine. As if there was never a problem.
Drove it home later, Fine.
Drove it next day, Fine.
The wife drive a few days later same syptoms kick in and then next time it starts, fine.
We thought as the car came with a 3 month warranty i'd just get it looked at by the garage just in case and its a good job we did. They had it since 18th November 2009 and we've just picked it up on 6th Jan.
Over 800 in parts, hundreds of miles in road tests and god knows how many hours of headaches. The garage we bought the car sent it to the local Ford dealership for its work where they first of all plugged it in etc.
They replaced a number of parts, the gear selector being on of them (i think this is in the ecu on this as its all auto). They then sent it back to our garage who road tested it, no good, still the same.
Another load of parts fitted, back to garage for a longer road test. They phoned us on 22nd December, after a 170 mile round trip it started playing up on the way home.
Back to fords. They have sinced replaced a relay, the EGR valve and a peice of wiring loom amongst other parts. The wiring loom seemd to be either causing a spark under the bonnet or causing overheating under the bonnet and this seemed to be causing problems, especially on long journeys.
As i say we have it back now and it all seems ok so far but we need to take it on a long spin to be sure. The garage have been brilliant and given us another 3 month warranty on the car as they have had it over 2 months of the original 3. With the wife being ready to drop we're trying not to venture to far from the local hospital so once the baby is born i think i'll take it out for a long spin.
On a nicer note we fitted our car seat into the car yesterday so we are all ready for the baby to arrive. The final piece in the jigsaw.
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post #2 of 17 Old 01-11-2010, 02:28 PM Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
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Forgot to mention. Spoke to an ex ford mechanic friend of mine.
Those EGR valves have terrible problems, especially on diesels so keep your eye on when it was last looked at or changed if ever. His advice was "Give it a good ragging every once in a while, that will keep it from clogging up". Brilliant.
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post #3 of 17 Old 01-11-2010, 02:45 PM
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Well you had one of the better dealers than others!

I know diesels do not like short journeys so I ensure that ours has at least two long journeys a month with some "minor" high revs to keep everything sweet.
Even last week, with all the snow we have had and the lack of use, I've been running the engines for an hour or so, just to keep the batteries and engine in order.

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post #4 of 17 Old 01-11-2010, 04:11 PM
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You mention problems in the wiring loom.I had problems with the engine cooling fan & it turned out to be breaks in the wiring.I had it done by an independant sparkie.If I`d gone to ford it would have cost a fortune.
Glad you up & runnung again & pleased with the result

MetalMicky ( Mike)

2004 2.0 TDCI Zetec
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post #5 of 17 Old 01-12-2010, 12:19 AM
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What car is it please?

08 1.8 Titanium C-Max *ST Styled* With Car PC Fitted
Previous:54 1.6TDCi LX Focus C-Max
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post #6 of 17 Old 01-12-2010, 01:33 PM Thread Starter
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Gepard,My model is a 1.6 TDCI Ghia, 04 plate.
In terms of wiring problems I've read quite a lot about cmax's and thier wiring issues. I remeber reading somewhere that where the bulk of the wires are channelled through the bulkhead it causes a lot achafing.
Fords eh? you cant live with 'em, you cant live without 'em.
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post #7 of 17 Old 01-13-2010, 02:57 AM
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Sounds about right....unfortunately one of the older ones.

The wiring is put through a very large grommet in the firewall just behind the glovebox and it actually moulded straight onto the cable. There is no chafing - certianly not for the main cable bundle.

08 1.8 Titanium C-Max *ST Styled* With Car PC Fitted
Previous:54 1.6TDCi LX Focus C-Max
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post #8 of 17 Old 03-29-2010, 08:40 PM
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bought my C Max last August and it was running great until last month.

First thing that showed something wrong was Engine System Fault came up on display - went to local garage who told me it was a clogged fuel filter and pipe - 350 later (they emptied and cleaned out tank which they said had slime in it) I drove off but the Engine System Fault was still on.

Went back to garage and they told me that the computer said that it was now that the fuel additive tank needed replacing - something only a Ford Dealership can do.

Went to local Dee's who told me that it needed replacing every 70,000 miles (I bought the car second hand) three weeks later the car started to lose power and make terrible noise going up hill.

It is in garage as we speak and localgarage (not the first garage that ripped me off on the fuel filter) has told me it is the turbo pump and will cost about 650 to replace.

Spoke to a friend who has told me that Ford C Max is famous for certain things going wrong especially loss of power from standing, problems with closure of boot etc

As I am a lady mini cab driver and if I do not work I don't get paid, I have lost over the last 6 weeks over two weeks pay with faults.

What I want to know is why have a fuel additive tank that has to be replaced every 70,000 miles, when fuel now has additives added when you buy it?

Is it just another con from Ford?
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post #9 of 17 Old 03-29-2010, 11:39 PM
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The fuel additive tank in question is related to additives in respect of the EURO IV emission code. It is part of the system to reduce the quantity of the diesel soot particles that are considered very carcionogenic (think I've spelt that right - cancer forming anyway) Every vehicle that is approved to Euro IV or V or the proposed EURO VI emission standard will have a similar system (trucks are slightly different as to how but the effect is the same in respect of the Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF). I don't beleive it can be added to the fuel as the content of the tank reacts with the Oxides of Nitrogen the Carbon Monoxide and the residual Hydrocarbons to reduce the pollutant effect of the exhaust

If this is the 1.6 Diesel you might just like as an additional check to look at the bottom left hand corner of the VIN plate at the bottom of the shut face on the drivers door to see if there is either an "S" or a "V". If it is "S" then it is EURO III and hasn't got the DPF.

Also on the VIN plate in the long number that begins something like WFOMXX####### digits 11 & 12 give the year and month of the car's build

54 Plate 1.6 TDCI LX ~aspiring to be something else
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post #10 of 17 Old 03-30-2010, 01:34 AM
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It doesn't have to be replaced, just refilled!
The additive is a horrible thing, Peugeot used it for a time to, stains everything in sight.
The tank has a bung on the side and you use an adapter and pipe to squeeze the contents into the tank.

2010 Titanium 2.0 TDCI Panther Black.
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