Well not even a week passed before the EGR threw it's hand in again and required cleaning. Decided to blank the valve off with some plate. MIL light is now on but hey I can live with that v the car not revving past 3000rpm and poor fuel economy. Working on a fix to put the MIL lamp out maybe I can devise some way of tricking the PCM into thinking it's working. Anyway thought i'd share a few pics/info if anybody fancied doing their own knowing there is a lack of Haynes manuals ect. The whole job took about 2.5-3hrs inc fabricating the metal plates and a few coffee and *** breaks. If anybody has any questions i'll be more than happy to help!
You can get good access to the EGR valve from the bonnet side of the engine, but you have to remove the wiper arms(you'll need a puller tool to remove them though) then remove the plastic scuttle which is in two parts upper and lower, you also need to remove the brake fluidresivior(held on by 2 torx screws).
The actuall valve is located to the rear and underneaththe fuel filter so I removed the metal housing, the fuel pipes and then the filter its self along with a wiring multiplug. Then there is a little mettal plate that has lugs to hold the fuel filter, it's held by 3x 8mm head sizebolts remove the bolts and the plate. You'll see the valve there then. There is a metal pipe running from the valve to the inlet manifold. Joining the egr valve to the pipe is a metal snap clip which needs to be removed. There is a multibloc connection from the egr valve that needs disconnecting, follow the wires down and you'll see it and unplug. The egr is held by 2 8mm head bolts, remove these be carefull, there is a thin metal plate gasket that sits between the valve and the enginge, don't loose it!.
Once you have got the valve away I took it into the garage and clamped it in the vice. As you look at the valve from above there are 4 small torx screws leave these, it's the 3 larger ones that bolt the motoronto the valve you need to remove, get these out and remove the motor away from the valve(there is a sealing o-ring I replaced this 'cos mine was damaged).
The valve was siezed and covered in carbonon mine, I put the valve into a parafin bath then into a large ultrasonic bath that I have for motorcycle parts(sorry I can't disclose what I use in the bath, it's a trade secret!)for a bit. This freed it right off, i just used carb cleaner then blew it out with compressed air. Re assembled the valve and re fitted it to the car and everything else in reverse order. Make sure when you remove the fuel filter, don't empty the fuel out of it because if you do you'll have to re prime it with fuel, and if you forget the car will be difficult to start. When you do re-start it might be a bit lumpy for a few seconds, this is just because you have had the fuel lines off, it's just the air bleeding out of the system
Here is a slection of tools and cleaning products you may need. Most stuff was 8-13mm. The flex head ratchet spanners really come into their own when removing the EGR valve, 1 of the bolts is quite tricky to remove because of wiring/pipework in the way.
You need to remove the wiper arms. You will deffo need a wiper arm puller for this, undo the 13mm nuts and apply the puller to withdraw the arms. Dont loose the small washers that sit under the nuts!
These clips hold the upper/lower scuttle together, remove the rubber sealing strip then these. I used a trim removal tool but a good flatblade should also do it.
x2 Torx screws hold the brake fluid resivior to the scuttle remove these
x2 Torx screws 1 either side holds lower scuttle, remove these then pull the scuttle forwards to remove.
Battery -ve terminal removed and earth strap
Fuel filter housing removal 3 x 8mm head sized bolts
Here is the valve as fitted to the car (Fuel filter and housing removed)
Actual valve assy, note the o-ring. These are the 3 screws you need to remove to access the valve for cleaning.